Mauritania & Western Sahara Discovery

A Journey Into the Sahara with Martin Charlton

TOURCODE: MCMA

Day 1 Arrival in Agadir, Morocco
Today we arrive in Agadir and transfer to our central Agadir hotel.

Situated in the west of the country, south of the Atlas Mountains and bordered by the waves of the Atlantic, Agadir is a modern city and a vital port and tourist hub.

Dinner if required.

PLEASE NOTE: This itinerary has been designed to enable the traveller to experience fascinating places where the arrival of foreigners is an exceptional event. One needs to be both tolerant and flexible in order to fully enjoy the unique nature, landscape and the spontaneous hospitality of the local populations. Daily itineraries, visits, overnight points and our accommodation are all subject to change due to: improvements and adaptation from recent experiences, news from the field, and force majeure. The changes are decided by the organizer and team on the ground, and our exact route and places visited are also subject to change based upon local weather conditions.
Included Meal(s): Dinner

Day 2 Journey South - Tiznit & Sidi Ifni
Originally a Berber settlement, today Agadir is a cosmopolitan town with Phoenician origins. Thanks to its geographical position and mild climate, this region has seen the influence of Carthaginians, Portuguese, Dutch, Sephardi Jews and finally French. The town was destroyed by an earthquake in 1960 and has been almost entirely rebuilt.

After meeting our drivers we climb aboard our 4x4 vehicles this morning and start our journey southwards. At the Berber town of Tiznit we will leave the main highway an enjoy a scenic journey along the Atlantic coast, between reefs and creeks. In the Legzira region we will stop for a late lunch at a typical restaurant by a fishing village dominating the ocean. The Legzira region is one of Morocco’s most visually stunning coastal destinations. Nestled against the backdrop of the Atlantic Ocean, it boasts dramatic vistas that captivate nature lovers. Here one finds iconic cliffs looming over a vibrant turquoise bay, and the contrast between the rugged cliffs and fine sands creates a unique ambiance.

Sidi Ifni is our final destination for the day. Between sea, mountains and the great desert of the south, Sidi Ifni is built on a rocky plateau overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. This Art Deco military town dates back to the 1400's and was a Spanish enclave until 1969. Built on a clifftop site, many of its 1930s buildings that we see today have been the victims of neglect. The still inhabited Hispano-Moresque citadel dominates the ocean from a rocky hill, and the large alleys and round plaza have a unique atmosphere.

Overnight in Sidi Ifni.
Included Meal(s): Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 3 Guelmim Market - Ksar Tafnidilt / Tan Tan
We leave the coast this morning and venture southeast to Guelmim - once a stopover on the route to Timbuktu and a gateway to the Sahara.

This ancient caravan terminal is one of Morocco’s best-kept secrets, and is home to the largest camel market in the country. In the medina we can discover an array of goods including ancient glass beads from the trans-Sahara trade. The right day to be in Guelmim is the market day (Saturday). In the animal section of the souk you will uncover a unique scene of colours and sounds with sheep, goats and camels. Nomadic herders dressed in the traditional clothing (heads and faces covered by blue turbans) come all the way from Mauritania.

We will enjoy lunch in a local restaurant before we leave the road for a track to Ksar (Fort) Tifnidilt in Tan-Tan, located at the top of a hill overlooking the western bank of Ouadi Draa riverbed. This southern bend of the Ouadi (river) Draa was the border between the French protectorate of Morocco and the Spanish Sahara colony, and the ghostly military fort of Tifnidilt still guards this ancient border. Tan-Tan, situated east of the Atlantic Ocean in the extreme northwestern reaches of the Sahara, is both a military post and a market centre for the Regeibat and Tekna nomads who live in the area.

We arrive in the late afternoon at our hotel that will be our base for two nights. Our hotel - Ksar Tafnidilt Hotel, was built using local materials in a traditional Saharan style of architecture.

Overnight in Tan Tan.
Included Meal(s): Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 4 Draa Valley Estuary - Coastal Drive & Exploration
Today we explore the Draa Valley Estuary region - an area only visited by true intrepid travellers. Between the cliffs and the Atlantic Ocean one only finds tracks that seem to vanish into the sand.

Tucked away in the enchanting region of Ben Khlil, the Draa Valley Estuary offers a unique retreat into a serene landscape where the desert meets the ocean. Admire the contrasting beauty where the arid valley landscape converges with the Atlantic's azure waves. The area serves as a crucial habitat for migrating birds, making it an essential point of interest for ornithologists and nature enthusiasts alike. The estuary acts as a natural reservoir of nutrients, supporting an array of bird species throughout the year.

Along our adventure today we will discover tiny temporary settlements where locals can be found fishing directly from the cliff, or from caves facing the ocean. Old colonial military posts are part of the landscape, as are dunes and camels. If the tide permits, we will drive for miles along a wild beach strip between dunes and waves. We eventually leave the coastline finding our way along a riverbed (Ouadi) in a large canyon, the only possible path between desert, cliffs and the ocean.

In the evening we return to our comfortable base - Ksar Tafnidilt hotel.
Included Meal(s): Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 5 Dunes and Lagoons - Tarfaya
As we depart from Tan-Tan this morning our route follows an exciting itinerary through a crag on the edge between the Sahara and the ocean.

We will stop at the Naila salt lagoon (Khnifiss National Park), separated from the ocean by rows of dunes. This estuary on the sea is the largest salt lake in Morocco and seems to come out of nowhere, after miles and miles of desert as far as the eye can see. The infinite blue lagoon is a protected area of great natural beauty. This an important resting point on the migratory journey for many bird species can host up to 20,000 individual species including flamingos, cormorants, gulls, herons and more. Here we will board some local fishing boats to explore the emerald water enclosed in a wide frame of yellow dunes and brown escarpments.

Later in the afternoon we arrive at the tiny town of Tarfaya on the Juby Cape, less than 100 km away from the Canary Islands. The Canary Islands are so close that, on a clear night, the local residents claim to be able to see the lights across the water. This region is a semi-desert buffer zone between Morocco proper and the Western Sahara.

Overnight in Tarfaya

Tarfaya is a former 'Aeropostale' base. The nearby Cape Juby airfield was an important refueling and stopover station for Aéropostale - an air route connecting France to its French colonies in Africa. The last town in Morocco proper, Tarfaya is really just a sleepy little fishing village that sometimes gives the impression of having been all but forgotten. But, there is a charmingly lazy air about the place, and here one finds a small interesting museum. The famous French writer and aviator Antoine de Saint-Exupéry lived in Tarfaya for two years before writing his masterpiece 'The Little Prince'.
Included Meal(s): Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 6 Western Sahara Expedition: 'The Forbidden Track'
Today we cross into the Western Sahara, a sparsely-populated area of mostly desert situated on the northwest coast of Africa. A former Spanish colony, the Western Sahara was annexed by Morocco in 1975, and since then it has been the subject of a long-running territorial dispute between Morocco and its indigenous Sahrawi people. The Sahrawi people are of Arab and Berber ethnicity and speak a unique dialect of Arabic.

In Laayoune we will meet our local guide, a nomad from a Sahrawi tribe who will lead us through a three-day total off-road expedition crossing the Western Sahara from north to south. Laayoune, built on the site of a desert oases, is the principal town in Western Sahara and is a useful base before onward travel into the desert. The administrative Western Sahara towns might lack history, but they can be colourful places. Women wear sari-type fabrics swept over their heads and bodies, and the array of colour choices is striking in the bleach-white midday sun.

The former Spanish Sahara colony (now part of Morocco) has been the site of a long conflict between the Polisario Armed Front and the Moroccan army. Since the second half of the seventies, due to this long “sand war,” this region has been off-limits to travelers and until today no peace treaty has been signed. We will venture into the vast, sandy regions of Saguia El Hamra, Tiris Zemmour, ending with the spectacular Rio de Oro sea-look. During this Saharan expedition, we will cross large dunes and discover wells frequented by long lines of camels belonging to the legendary Reguibat nomads.

Tonight we will camp under the stars. Camping in the immensity of the Sahara is an unforgettable experience, and our home for tonight and tomorrow night will be a comfortable mobile camp. We will sleep in large Bedouin style tents with carpets, chairs and mattresses. Dinner under the stars is part of the experience, so tables and chairs will be set up so we can eat outdoors. A choice among soft drinks, beer and wine will be available for dinner. A toilet tent will also be available. In the unfortunate case of sand-storm, a restaurant tent will be set up for a more comfortable dining experience.
Included Meal(s): Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 7 Western Sahara Expedition: 'The Forbidden Track'
Our adventure through the Western Sahara continues. We explore rolling dunes and watch for camel trains as we explore a land that has almost been forgotten. It is here where traditions are strong and the scenery awe-inspiring. We spend our time exploring, stopping at wells, and meeting the local population. Morocco may be familiar to many, but the deep south is a different world that has changed little over the centuries.
Included Meal(s): Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 8 Journey from the Desert to the Ocean / Dakhla
Today we continue with our Trans-Saharan expedition, through a region of dunes, wells and nomadic camps. In the afternoon our route will bring us back to the ocean.

The charm and richness of this land are due precisely to its desolation. This is a wild and unspoilt landscape, set between desert, lagoons and ocean waves. Witness breathtaking panoramas alongside monumental cliffs with surreal shapes. We eventually spot the whitewashed buildings of Dakhla, near the Oued Ed-Dahab Bay. The city of Dakhla, on the edge of the Atlantic, is built on the 40 km long peninsula that forms the bay of Rio de Oro. This is a haven of peace between lagoon and ocean, and area that is popular for kite surfing and wildlife. This part of the Sahara was controlled by Spain for hundreds of years and has close ties to the Canary Islands. Dakhla was made the capital of the Spanish Sahara.

If you’ve made it down to Dakhla, the last town before Mauritania, you’ve travelled far into Western Sahara. With its location on the skinny peninsula, this modern town makes much of its double shoreline and bay.

Overnight in Dakhla.
Included Meal(s): Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 9 Dakhla Peninsula Exploration - Rio de Oro
The astonishing beauty of the Dakhla peninsula landscape makes it a unique place. The Rio de Oro is a 25-mile-long sea loch between cliffs and dunes. The city is characterised by arcaded buildings with a colonial flavour, numerous mosques, and a Christian cathedral. Characteristic is the harbour with its' fishing fleet and poetic Spanish lighthouse.

This small town was founded by Spanish navigators as 'Villa Cisneros', and pastel colours paint the scenery: the blue ocean, yellow sand, emerald seaweed fields and dark rocks. We will visit to the colourful fishing harbour and enjoy lunch at an oyster farm. We will enjoy a stunning drive along the shore to discover where the waves lap the sand dunes. Dinner tonight will be in a typical restaurant before we return to our hotel.

Overnight in Dakhla.
Included Meal(s): Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 10 Crossing into Mauritania - Nouadhibou
Our journey today will track along the cliffs between the desert and the ocean as we follow the only open road going south. A signboard indicates that we are 'on' the Tropic of Cancer. At the Guerguerat military post we will cross the southern border post of Morocco, and we will travel a few miles into no-man's land. The boundary here is a theoretical line in the desert that 'divides the sand from the sand', and on the other side is the military post of Mauritania.

Mauritania is a destination that once suffered from security issues and travel bans, but today it is on the return and offers a unique blend of wild Atlantic fisherman mixed with traditional desert nomads of the Sahara. This is an epic, raw and off the beaten track destination, home to a vast, jaw-dropping desert, occasionally dotted with ancient caravan cities which once were important trading routes. This huge and sparsely populated nation is just waiting to be explored. Mauritania bridges the Arab Maghreb with western sub-Saharan Africa, and the largely-desert country presents a cultural contrast, with an Arab-Berber population to the north and black Africans to the south, with many of its people still leading a nomadic way of life.

This evening we arrive in Nouadhibou where we overnight. Nouadhibou is one of the most important cities in Mauritania, and today it is an important fishing port. Nouadhibou is also where the epic Mauritanian iron-ore train stops to offload its cargo onto boats.

Overnight in Nouadhibou.
Included Meal(s): Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 11 Dunes and Mountains / Akjoujt
Nestled beside the Atlantic Ocean and consumed by the Sahara, Mauritania is the land of endless dunes and stunning coasts. Though rarely visited, this country is filled with breathtaking landscapes and authentic desert life. Today provides a wonderful introduction as a day of driving between road and trail will take us on a journey inland. A full day of traveling will end at the mining town of Akjoujt where we overnight.

Overnight in Akjoujt.
Included Meal(s): Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 12 Dunes and Mountains / Chinguetti
Today we experience an absolutely amazing journey that will take us through some high dunes. To cross long ranges of dunes our drivers will decrease the tire pressure of our 4x4's, and GPS, maps and compass assistance will guide our navigation through this untouched landscape. The Sahara can make a traveler truly feel like the first person on a planet.

We come to Erg Amatlich, one of the most beautiful dune basins in Mauritania. This vast dune barrier is trapped between the mountains of the Adrar plateau. Along our route we may discover traces of thousand-year-old human presence such as stone tools and shards of pottery. Nomadic settlements may be discovered along the way. These human encounters, after the deep silence of the desert, are intense. We will venture into the scenic landscape of the Adrar massif: valleys, high mountains, yellow sand dunes, peaks of dark and red rock. The term Adrar derives from a Berber language and means mountainous area. Because of its natural shelter in the desert, Adrar has historically been of special importance for the area of present-day Mauritania and for trans-Saharan trade. The people who populate the Adrar region were once truly nomadic

Today we will enjoy remote oasis and tiny adobe villages. After a long and intense journey we will arrive in Chinguetti region where we spend 3 nights. The ancient city of Chinguetti has welcomed travellers seeking shelter from the blistering Saharan heat for more than 1,200 years.

Overnight in Chinguetti
Included Meal(s): Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 13 Chinguetti Oasis Exploration
Today will be spent discovering the unique atmosphere of Chinguetti region, considered the true jewel of the Mauritanian oasis. Chinguetti was founded in the 8th Century as a caravan stop for pilgrims en route to Mecca. This red-stone desert oasis eventually blossomed into one of the biggest centres of science, religion and mathematics in West Africa. This was the center of several trans-Saharan trade routes linking the Mediterranean coast to 'Black Africa'. Much of this stone citadel dates to the 13th century, and we will soak in the atmosphere of the old stone town and admire the architecture.

Home to some of the world’s most important medieval Quranic texts, this desert oasis was once an intellectual hub. We will visit one of the old libraries where we see some ancient manuscript collections from the Middle-ages, including Ould Habott, the largest in Mauritania. The oasis with their 'green miracles' of palm tree gardens are surrounded by large chains of yellow dunes. The western boundary of the town that is always waging a battle against the push of the sands of the Sahara. As the Sahara continues to expand southward at an alarmingly fast rate and encroach on Chinguetti’s flat-roofed buildings, and with climate change causing flash flooding to rip through the town, this treasure of a location remains in jeopardy.

We will see the main Mosque and the Chinguetti stone minaret - believed to be the second oldest still operating in the entire Muslim world. Chinguetti means a lot to Mauritania, and today its mosque, restored with financial assistance of UNESCO, is one of the symbols of the country.

We later return to our cozy guest house in Chinguetti.
Included Meal(s): Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 14 The Remote Oasis of Ouadane
Today we will drive to Ouadane, a small town in the desert situated on the southern edge of the Adrar Plateau just 93 km northeast of Chinguetti. Along with Chinguetti, this is one of the most culturally and historically important cities in the Adrar region.

Following a dry creek (wadi / ouadi) we will come across tiny oasis hidden along our route in the high dunes. Ouadane - the most remote oasis in Mauritania, and a true outpost in the emptiness of the desert. Ouadane was founded in the 12th Century, and while most has fallen to ruin, some of its stone houses, perched on a rocky hill, are still inhabited. This was once an important caravan trading point in the trans-Saharan trade and for caravans transporting slabs of salt from the mines at Idjil. Nowhere else in Mauritania do the ruins of the old city extend over such an extensive area as here. It is therefore not without reason that the ksar is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Founded to serve the caravans crossing the Sahara, this trading and religious centre became a focal point of Islamic culture. Ouadane has managed to preserve an urban fabric that evolved between the 12th and 16th centuries. Typically, like in Chinguetti, houses with patios crowd along narrow streets around a mosque with a square minaret. They illustrate a traditional way of life centred on the nomadic culture of the people of the western Sahara. Ouadane is composed of three different zones: the archaeological area, the old city, and the more recent settlements to the east of the ancient core.

We later return to our comfortable base in Chinguetti.
Included Meal(s): Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 15 Oasis Exploration - Desert Rock Art - Atar Market - Terjit Oasis
The landscape will never cease to amaze us. Leaving the main track, we will reach a region of spectacular mountains, gorges and canyons… infinite space dominated by the ochre of the earth and the blue sky. On the horizon one may spot the ruins of Fort Saganne, built as the set for the film of the same name.

The Agrour Amogjar Mountains offer shelter from the heat and wind of the Sahara Desert. A series of caves lie as high as 150 meters up the face of a cliff on top of Aghour Aghajer, which is what the Agrour Amogjar mountaintop is called. These natural shelters are home to some rich rock paintings (handprints, naturalistic wildlife such as giraffe, lion and crocodile, as well as herds of cattle and human collective scenes).

In the town of Atar we will make a short visit to the local market, and then our route brings us to Terjit, one of the most lush oases of Mauritania. Terjit is located on the western edge of the Adrar Plateau and is situated in a gorge protected from the sun on three sides by high rock walls. We will follow a tiny stream as we walk through a dense palm grove protected by a gorge, and we will soon discover a vast rock shelter where spring water flows. For hundreds of years it had been a place of rest and shelter for caravans and insanely brave lone wayfarers who decided to travel through the vast Sahara Desert.

We continue to Akjoujt for the overnight.
Included Meal(s): Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 16 From Desert To The Ocean - Nouakchott / Departure
From the desert to the ocean, today we travel to Nouakchott - the capital and largest city of Mauritania. Here we will discover the treasures of Mauritania's capital. An overview of Mauritanian history and culture is presented to us at the National Museum, which displays archaeology, artifacts, costumes and textiles from prehistory to the present days.

Lunch will be enjoyed at a local restaurant that offers up some tasty cuisine of West Africa. The hundreds of brightly painted colorful pirogues that line the beach on Nouakchott fishing harbor are an amazing sight. It is here that the sub-Saharan (mainly Senegalese) fishermen sell the abundant catches to the market. Mauritania processes more than 1,800,000 tons of fish each year.

As most flights depart from Nouakchott in the evening, day-use hotel rooms will be arranged until your evening flights depart. If your flight happens to depart tomorrow morning then an overnight can be arranged.

BON VOYAGE!
Included Meal(s): Breakfast and Lunch